Editor’s note: This unbiased review is sponsored by 715Delivery.
Anyone who has visited New Orleans knows that good Cajun food is hard to come by in the north. You might find a selection or two on a wide-ranging menu, but it’s pretty hard to find a full spectrum of Louisiana cuisine anywhere in central Wisconsin. That’s partly because it can be tough to “do” Louisiana well, with its complex mix of flavors and spices.
That’s why we were a little skeptical when we walked into J. Gumbos for the first time. It turns out, we needn’t have worried.
Located on Third Street in downtown Wausau, this restaurant’s exposed brick walls, wrought iron fixtures, and colorful murals are the epitome of New Orleans. A full bar has an array of cocktail choices, from Hurricanes to the more traditional wine, beer and spirits, and the staff is friendly and attentive.
And oh, the menu choices! From the less-spicy but flavorful gumbo, to traditional jambalaya, to Po’-Boys and more, there is something to please just about any Cajun-inspired palate.
We started with the house-made spicy cornbread, baked with jalapenos, cheese, corn, and crawfish, which was hands down the tastiest cornbread we’ve ever had. It was so good, we took two extra pieces to go.
For our main course, we tried two dishes: the crawfish Po’-boy and the Jean Lafitte.
Here, we might call it a sub, submarine, or hero, but in Louisiana, they’re called Po’-boys. The name stems from the idea that the Po’-boy is an inexpensive way to get a satisfying meal. At J. Gumbo’s, the thin crust and pillowy soft center of a New Orleans-style French roll cradles a healthy portion of crawfish, lettuce, tomato and special sauce, served up with a bag of chips on the side. For a little more heat, we’re also intrigued by the buffalo chicken Po’-boy, a roll smothered in Creole buffalo sauce with red onion, or the honey sriracha chicken version, topped with fresh cilantro.
In a word, delicious.
Our other entree, the Jean Lafitte, is named for a notorious pirate and smuggler who interrupted his illicit adventures to fight for the U.S. in defense of New Orleans in the War of 1812, is a delicious combination of Bublebee Stew and Voodoo Chicken. The combined entrees are served over white rice and topped with cheese, sour cream and jalapenos. The dish was flavorful and spicy, but not so spicy you’d find yourself running around the block just to cool off. Initially, we were wondering why the dish came with a huge hunk of French bread, but it turned out to be the perfect way to mop up extra sauce, while at the same time serving as a foil to the heat of the entree itself.
In case you’re wondering, Bumblebee Stew is a mixture of yellow corn, stewed tomatoes, onions and black beans in a sweet, yet spicy cream sauce. Voodoo chicken is spicier, cooked with garlic and olive oil in a spicy tomato sauce. The combination is amazing. And they don’t call it a “big bowl” for nothing. We have enough leftovers for lunch today (for both of us!)
We were stuffed, but we did take note for next time that they do offer a number of fabulous-sounding deserts, notably a slice of sweet potato pie served with whipped cream. The menu also includes bread pudding, peach cobbler and a chocolate brownie, among other choices, so be sure to save room.
Our verdict: J. Gumbo’s, you have a winner here.
J. Gumbo’s, 316 Third St., Wausau, is available for delivery or takeout through 715Delivery and is open at 10:30 a.m. daily.
